Drumsticks to matta rice, exports soar with migrating tastes
KOCHI : The humble drumstick (Moringa oleifera) is venturing into new frontiers, crossing oceans to uncharted territories like never before, all to meet the evolving tastes of migrating Keralites. A former restaurateur, now engaged in brewing in London, has been importing Palakkadan Matta rice to the United Kingdom since 2019 to craft a beer that authentically captures the flavours of the state.
The export of Kerala-specific vegetables, curry powders and rice is on the rise, reaching non-traditional markets such as Canada, the UK, Australia, and Ireland. The surge in exports aligns with the growing migration of Malayalis to these regions, creating a diverse culinary influence. The demand for the ubiquitous drumstick, native to southern India, initially puzzled Thiruvananthapuram-based Krishna Traders which has been in the trade for 45 years. “Simultaneously, the demand for small onions, especially the ‘nattukai’ variety used to make ‘theeyal’, is on the rise,” Manoj Raveendranath, partner of Krishna Traders, told TNIE.
“In the past, the export of exotic items from the Indian subcontinent was limited. Earlier, expatriates would frequently resort to substituting or making do with alternative vegetables to compensate for the absence of Kerala-specific products. However, the new generation of expatriates is displaying a greater willingness to invest in food items directly imported from Kerala,” he said. Manoj noted that trade to the new markets has surged by 300% in the past two years, while traditional markets are experiencing saturation.
Vivek Pillai, who has been crafting ‘Komban’ — a unique craft beer — using Palakkadan Matta rice in London, said his motivation was to develop a beer that could authentically represent Kerala. “I had a few ingredients in mind, but they had to harmonise with our recipe. After consultations with the team, we concluded that Palakkadan Matta rice would be the ideal ingredient, seamlessly blending with our current formulation,” he said.
‘Rise in Malayali migration reason for spike in exports’
Confirming the trend, Vinod Manjila, of Manjilas Food Tech, the owners of the Double Horse brand, said there is an increase in the rise of exports to non-GCC countries, and this is due to the increase in migration of Malayalis to these countries.
“We also find the natives of these countries trying Kerala cuisine because of the rich experience of their travel to Kerala and the availability of new Kerala eateries in those countries,” he added.
Ubais Ali from Mezhukkattil Mills, a prominent supplier of coconut products, said the migration of dependents of nurses has spurred the establishment of retail stores and restaurants to meet the demands of expatriates. These first-generation retailers are driving the demand for Kerala and Malayali-specific products such as rice, vegetables, banana leaves, chips, coconut oil, coconut paste, desiccated coconut, and more. Ali noted a significant surge in exports to these new markets compared to traditional ones.
“While volumes may be small and scattered across various products, the increasing variety of exported items enables the filling of containers with diverse products. The residents of these countries are also gradually developing a taste for the exotic products from our state, resulting in growing demand,” he added.
Manoj said the shift has also given rise to a new breed of importers who curate such items for distribution in these countries. “Some family members, arriving on dependent visas, have even established retail stores dedicated to selling these unique Kerala products. Even in remote towns in Australia and Ireland, you can now find Kerala stores offering items exclusive to Kerala,” he added.
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